Tooth And Tail Mods

Tier 1 units[editedit source]

In victory we feast. Our enemies will be dinner. Tooth and Tail is a Real-Time Strategy game set in a world of animal revolution. The Commonfolk, the Civilized, the Longcoats and the KSR are at war over who will eat and who will be eaten.Lead the Revolution Wage war with customizable factions, featuring units like mustard-gas skunks and flamethrowing boars.

Archers, turrets, spearmen, The Guards and other rich arms are waiting for you to experience! Download epic battle simulator mod apk. Epic Battle Simulator DescriptionEpic Battle Simulator apk is a strategic war game. The game screen is relatively simple, but the gameplay is exceptionally rich, diverse arms, each unit has its own unique attributes, and there is restraint between the arms.Completing every epic battle in the game, you can freely match your own gold team and arrange for the enemy's formations to change! Choose the restrained units to defeat the enemy in one fell swoop!

Nintendo Land is a launch title for the Wii U, which was first released in North America on November 18, 2012, Europe and Oceania on November 30, 2012, and Japan on December 8, 2012. The game's setting is based on a virtual theme park, containing twelve minigames built around various Nintendo franchises, including four based on Mario and its subseries. The minigames are played using alongside. Nintendo land wikipedia. Nintendo Land (ニンテンドーランド, Nintendō Rando) is a party video game developed and published by Nintendo along with Kanzen'na Dokusen Sekai as a pack-in launch title for the Wii U home video game console in 2012. The game was first announced at E3 2012 during Nintendo's press conference.

  • Squirrels aka The Distillery Brothers
  • Lizards aka The Nomads of the North
  • Toads aka The Morning Light Croakers
  • Pigeons aka The Volunteers
  • Moles aka Engineers for Hire

Tier 2 units[editedit source]

  • Ferrets aka The Freight Union
  • Chameleons aka The Trench Gang
  • Falcons aka The Wing Demons
  • Skunks aka The Glorious AFB
  • Snakes aka The Tooth Collectors

Tier 3 units[editedit source]

  • Badger aka Inmate #43B
  • Boar aka Uncle Butters
  • Fox aka Kasha, the Farmhand
  • Owl aka The Matriarch and the Wretches
  • Wolf aka Drill Sergeant Volkov

Unique[editedit source]

  • Pigs aka Fat Boris (These harvest from the farms)
  • Zombie Mice (Spawned from the Owl)
Retrieved from 'https://toothandtail.gamepedia.com/index.php?title=Units&oldid=4052'
Tooth and tail mods minecraft
Home‎ > ‎

Modifications and Accessories

Note: I am not plugging EBay or any particular brand but my links are just to an easy reach for parts. If you notice where aftermarket parts originate, the V-Star 250 does not have a huge aftermarket selection from North America. This Asian market for accessories is quite large as I think I read somewhere (don't quote me) that one of the largest motorcycle manufacturers one factory in China makes more motorcycles that in all the motorcycle manufacturing in North America. Plus most of the motorcycles are 250cc and under, so the scale of accessories must be huge. If you have found other good sources for ordinary or fun items send me the link so I can add it in.
Tachometer: Look under 'MINI TACH TACHOMETER CHROME FITS YAMAHA W/ CLAMP VTWIN' on EBAY
Sprockets: Not plugging Sunstar but here is a link on EBay for a good selection of Sprockets
Highway Bar: Look under 'Engine Guard Highway Crash Bar For Yamaha Virago Vstar V-Star XV 125 250' on EBAY. The highway bar I have is relatively small so look carefully if you want a bigger one.
Exhaust Systems: Website: Jardine exhaust for the V-Star 250 ; YouTube video of the sound difference going from OEM to Jardine Slashcut Rumbler on the V-Star 250
Website: Webike exhaust (Japan) YouTube video of installing the Webike exhaust
Website: West Eagle exhaust YouTube video of the sound of the West Eagle Exhaust on the V-Star 250
There is also a custom manufacturer that makes a custom non chrome exhaust he has the title of Larish41 on the V-Star forums
Saddle and other Bags: Website: Viking Bags This is where I purchased mine
Website: Kuryakyn Bags
These are just a few Motorcycle Bag websites there are many more
Windshield: EBay Listing
Wheel Valve LED Light EBay Listing

Tachometer:
The Tachometer was installed to monitor RPM when on the highway. That way I can get maximum torque at the top end gearing.
How or what did I do: I found a proper dual fire, compatible to the V-Star, tachometer on EBay compared the wiring diagram with the bike wiring diagram and installed. My tachometer fit the best between the two riser bars for my handlebars. This was the most uncluttered place and easy to see. As you can see I used two gear clamps to hold it in place. I hope to fabricate a custom clamp in the future so it looks a little better.
Note: If you do not understand wiring diagrams you will probably require a motorcycle shop or someone with wiring experience that can help you wire it in.

Sprocket ratio change:
The drive and driven sprockets were changed was to expand the 5 gears speed band so they are spread out better. In other words I can go a little faster in each gear before shifting. In town this makes it a little easier to go from point to point without shifting so much.
How or what did I do: I changed my sprockets from the factory 16 tooth drive - 45 tooth driven to a set that are 17 tooth drive and 42 tooth driven. The following is a very simplified explanation of replacing your sprockets. If you change to different size sprockets than what I have then you will have to re size the amount of links or replace the chain. To change your rear sprocket you first need to securely put your motorcycle on a stand. (The reason I say securely is because one time I didn't strap the motorcycle on the motorcycle jack and it almost tipped off the seeming stable jack. I used a ratchet tie down to secure the bike to the jack). Then you begin to remove the back wheel by loosening the main wheel axle bolt. Next loosen off the wheel adjusters, pushing the wheel ahead to give enough slack to remove the chain off of the sprocket. Remove the brake cable to your rear brake and the torque arm bolt. Next remove the axle bolt completely and then remove your rear wheel. To remove the sprocket from the wheel you just need to remove the nyloc nuts that hold it on to the hub. It is a good idea to get new nuts as the nuts loose there hold value each time they are removed. Nyloc nuts plastic insert is for holding the nuts from spinning off if the nut happen to come loose. Now I also changed the front drive sprocket. First I remove the shifter arm and sprocket cover to expose the drive sprocket. I then remove the rear foot peg and cover and the chrome chain guard. With the front sprocket cover off you can see the nut that holds the sprocket in place. The nut has a tab that holds the drive sprocket nut from loosening. You need to straighten this tab so you can get the nut off. When putting the tab back on later use a new flat to bend over or get a new locking washer. Once the tab has been straightened then remove the retaining nut and sprocket. Now that you have a pile of parts, dig around until you find your new sprockets and replace them in the reverse order making sure you are using all the proper torques on the nuts that were removed. Also make sure you rear wheel is properly aligned and chain with the right slack. Please note there is a little difference where your adjusters were before as there is a slight variation with the new sprockets. If you have changed the sprocket sizes to smaller driven than what I did then you will need to replace or adjust the chain to fit. Remember this is a pretty simplified explanation of replacing your sprockets. If you want a better detail go to your maintenance manual and follow through. Get help from someone who has done this change a few times, or you can take it to your favorite motorcycle shop and they will change and set it up for you.
There is a large amount of discussion on the net about gear ratios. A lot of people like the driven sprocket to be 38 tooth. But that is only good where there is little or no hills to climb. I live in the mountains so I didn't go as steep on the ratio and this has been okay. Otherwise I wouldn't have the proper power band to push me over the mountain passes or steep hills. Also with this set of sprockets I was able to use the existing chain without lengthening or shortening it.
Notes: I could possibly go to a 40 tooth driven to give me a little more space between gearing but I am not sure if this will leave me enough of a power band on the steep hills. Plus I will have to change my chain.

Sprocket

This is a shot of my installed sprocket as you can see it is a 42 tooth. The white chain is from spray on lube that doesn't fling off.


Reason was to be able to see who is behind me a little better. Being a fairly tall man 6' 1 1/2' the stock mirrors tending to be a little hard to see around. The extenders were just enough to give me the view I needed without getting blinded by night time headlights as a fair amount of my riding is in the dark (early mornings :).
How or what did I do: I located some of these extenders on EBay removed my mirrors installed the extenders and installed the mirrors on top.
Note: I had to retighten the extender bolts a couple of times till they stopped coming loose.

Mirror Extenders



Stop light flasher:
Reason was to give a little more attention of my bike by those travelling behind.
How or what did I do: Again another EBay purchase . How they work is you wire the flasher into the existing stop light circuit so that every time you put on your brake the stop light will flash 5 times and then stay on steady. This works well as I have noticed other drivers staying farther behind.
Sissy Bar and Rack:
I needed a little extra place to carry odd items so I installed a rack and sissy bar this has been a good fit for my sissy bar bag and the rack has also been convenient for other items that will not fit in the bags.
How or what did I do: I purchase these pieces from the Yamaha dealer and it was a simple matter of removing / replacing existing bolts to get it to fit in.

Sissy Bar and rack



Saddle and Sissy Bar Bags:
Extra carrying capacity for my bike cover, hold down cords, extra lock, extra clothing, etc. etc.
How or what did I do: I purchase my bags at Viking Bags. They sent me almost enough hardware but I had to make up a top rail for all the bags hardware to connect too. I had to move my signal lights so they are now at the back attached to a bracket on the license plate frame.

Saddlebags

The images are the saddle bags, the support hardware and the tail light bracket that I made up to support the new tail light position


Windshield:
Very nice to keep the bugs off, deflect a little rain and rocks. Nice to deflect a little wind also so I don't feel I have to grip the handlebars like I am flapping in the wind.
How or what did I do: I purchase my windshield through my local Yamaha dealer. A relatively simple task of installing it on existing hardware. But had to reposition the front turn signal light a little

Windshield



Horn:
I felt my existing horn was a little quiet for those unexpected moments
How or what did I do: I purchased a black color high decibel horn off of EBay. I mounted it just below my existing horn and rewired it totally separately from the existing horn putting a small button beside the existing one. I had to use 12 guage wire so that the horn would work properly as any smaller and it wouldn't pass enough current to make the right sound. The horn is just a temporary unit until I decide what I would really like for a chrome model.

Horn




Why, because I like having a little more sound as I ride early in the morning to work when it is dark and very little other traffic but there are forest creatures lurking here and there. Just a little help to notify I am around. :)
How or what did I do: I drilled 3 - 3/8 holes in the back baffle plate of the muffler and this still leaves me with some back pressure to run the engine properly but does seem to give me a little more sound and zip. I am considering the Jardine Rumbler slash cut muffler system but I am a little divided on this idea.

Exhaust





This is really just an addition to the bike that gives it a little more chrome. It may protect a little but my highway bars are not very large.
How or what did I do: The assembly was easily bolted to the existing front frame. Though one part of the bar came very close to the exhaust pipe.

Highway Bar




I purchased a couple of clearance bullet shaped driving lights from Canadian Tire. These lights came with 35 watt halogen bulbs. This created a problem for me as my battery / charging system couldn't keep up very well with the power output. I found some 5 watt LED lights that has the same socket design on EBay from Hong Kong and replaced them. Nice and bright but took the stain off of my charging system

Driving Lights





Wheel strobe: I bought some wheel strobes that give a neon effect to the wheel in the spoke area.
How or what did I do: I found these items on EBay to make bikers more visible. These are a light that attaches to the Tire Air valve and give a wheel full of light effect only when the wheel moves. I do a lot of night driving as going to work is in the dark from August to April so these are just a little added help for others to see me.

Wheel Strobe



Thermometer: This item is a nice chrome that attaches to the handlebars. Nice to know how hot it is or how cold.

Thermometer



Clock: This item is also chrome and also attaches to the handlebars. This is a good reminder as I meander through the windy

Clock