Steno Arcade System

A community for discussion and support in development with the Godot game engine. Read before posting: IRC: on chat.freenode.net Discord: Matrix: Reference material. (community-maintained).

(curated list of Godot resources by Andre Schmitz). (curated list of Godot resources by ).Development buildsThese builds may be unstable, use at your own risk.Resources.

Steno Arcade is 100% free and open source and works with any steno machine or keyboard. The Early Access build of Steno Arcade includes.

– CC-licensed 3D models. ⋅ ⋅ – CC0-licensed PBR materials. – CC0-licensed panorama skies. – CC-licensed sound effects. – Free art assets.Related subreddits.Filter by post flair (tag). Hey everyone!We recently released Steno Arcade on Steam Early Access.

The game is being developed in Godot as a suite of four retro-inspired arcade games designed to teach and drill steno and keyboarding fundamentals. We've launched on Early Access with one of four games in the suite, Steno Hero (think Guitar Hero or Rock Band as a typing game). The game is 100% free and open source and the source code and documentation will be released upon completion. There are currently seven playable songs in Steno Hero and we're aiming to add at least eight more.If you don't have a Steam account, you can download the standalone Early Access build here:Check it out and let us know what you think.Thanks to for pointing out the broken link. Not sure what happened with the original post.

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I have already built an arcade joystick before and it was huge (60x30x12 centimeters for 2 players), also hard to use cause you would need a PC with all the emulation ready for play, etc. So that one ended up being stored somewhere I can't remember collecting dust but I still wanna play old school games with a stick and big buttons.After that experience I wanted a better solution which it must have:. Built in system: plug & play with a TV by HDMI. Small size: easy to carry and store. Scalable: plug into it another joystick for more players.

Joystick only mode: ready to use only the joystick for any other system by USBBest option I've found is by using a RaspberryPi with RetroPie plus an USB HUB and a custom made USB signal switch. BUT I didn't want to expose the raspberry pi, I wanted a closed box with all IO ready to use.I know this is nothing epic original but I just wanted to document and share all the stuff I came up with for each part of the build so you can build your own, improve the one you already have or even use it as inspiration for your next project.This instructable wont be a step by step DIY for the exact same build because it has a lot of custom stuff that you may get an easier workaround with the stuff you already have in your home. Although I will try to go through it all so you don't have to re-think everything to make one with same features.If you build one or have taken something from here please share a pic in the comments, I'd love to see it! First thing here I'll be putting links to the components I got for my build as reference I didn't buy any of mine from those sellers cause I bought all from local sellers in my country.-1. Raspberry Pi: As I said in the Intro this is system works with RetroPie so you would need a Raspberry Pi, I used the latest Pi 3 B+ but I think you can use version 2 also. The only thing here is if you go with a Pi Zero games you can play are a lot less and the build may change in some parts (since I have extended the Pi IO like Audio, USBs, HDMI and Power button) so check the schematics picture to see if it make sense for you.2.

In order to allow other players to hook up into your system you need usb ports which the RaspberryPi has already exposed but since we already have one joystick (our arcade) plugged into the RPi we need a way to expose usb ports out the box.So buying the cheapest USB hub would do or use one you have around (USB 2.0 is enough for RPi). This will give you the ability to plug a keyboard, mouse, more arcade players, I mean. If I have 1 more of this systems I could plug them together which was one of the ideas of this project.One thing though, if you are buying try to get one:.

without leds (you may end up removing them). without switches (you will have to desolder them and solder a short to be always ON). all USB ports should be on one face (it's easier to expose from the box). This one was hard to find, the point is to have an extension that is a HDMI Male to Female so you can plug in a TV outside the box.

Steno

Getting one short of this size around 5 cm was basically imposible locally for me so I ended up buying and then break open it so plastic wont get in the way.The first thought was to get several 90° (L) Male to Female and do some sort of a chain from the RPi to the back of the box but breaking one of those 360° was fairly easy.It would be much better and clean If you can get something like (which was what I couldn't find locally). For this extension you will need any Micro USB cable you may have around one they are pretty normal these days cause of smartphones like and then get for the other end.As the picture shows cut the cable to get the micro usb and then solder positive and negative into the micro usb female module.USB 2.0 cables have 4 path in them, V+ (positive), GND (ground), Data+ and Data. We only want power so if you find only 2 cables inside they are what we want otherwise you will need to find V+ and GND and discard the others.DO NOT ASSUME POLARITY BY COLORS, I have found that having a red and black color (or red and white) doesn't necessary mean black or white are GND or red is V+.So how do you identify them?, using the same you have and a multimeter:Just plug the micro usb into the female module and test continuity between a cable and the VBUS (labeled on the module) or GND in the module, in that way you will know which to solder where. By default RetroPie will send audio through HDMI so sound will come up from the TV but I figured I may want to connect headphones which is kinda hard using the TV itself and since RetroPie supports to select audio output I setup this easy extension.All you need is an audio jack 3.5 for chasis (like ) and a cable with a male jack to plug into the raspberry pi.Just solder Left, Right and GND and you have it.Side note. I haven't tried it out because I don't have Bluetooth headphones but they may just work by using one of the USB ports in the extension hub of this system and you can skip this step.

You can chose between a button with or without a led, if it doesn't have a led you can just skip the led part of this step but IT HAS TO BE A MOMENTARY BUTTON.Second. Triple check your connections for this step if you do it wrong you can blow up your raspberry pi.-Talking about Linux (which is where RetroPie runs, a Raspbian distribution) you cannot switch off your system by cutting out the power since your SD could get corrupted.

So a switch on/off button come really handy for this since I wanna be able to switch off the system at anytime but doing a nice and smooth shutdown.This has already been taken care from an awesome post at by doing a python script that will trigger a shutdown command when shorting Pin 5 to ground (which there's one at Pin 6). So I'm not gonna go through that because it's all explained there step by step, I've followed it and it works perfect.-The LED part of this stepAfter getting that switch on/off ready I wanted a led but not just on/off light. I wanted an ON light when the Pi was ON but also a cool flickering when it was reading the SD just like the old school IO LED.Raspbian has already that led feature in place so we just need to enable it:. Insert your SD card into a PC. Open at the root the file config.txt (use a text editor for this, like notepad, do not open it with Word). Add the following line at the very end of the file:dtoverlay=pi3-act-led,gpio=19,activelow=offThat line will make it happen in GPIO 19 which is how I show in the schematics pictures.What does it do? It just sends voltage 3.3 v through that pin when the RPi is not reading and a '0 v' when it is reading the SD card.That gives the effect of flickering when is working.This is only for RaspberryPi 3, if you have another version you would have to go through internet on how to do the same, I haven't checked for other versions but a good start would be at-How does an LED button work?The simple way of thinking it is as a switch plus a led all in one.

In a LED button you would find 2 pins for the LED which are going to have polarity and another 2 or 3 pins which are the same as a normal switch with the COM (common), NO (normally open) and NC (normally close).To identify them you can use a multimeter: pins of the switch will have continuity when you press, you know, like a normal switch. There are plenty of layouts over internet just try 'arcade panel layout' in google.

I used one pretty common but I have started it over through Fusion360 cause my buttons weren't the common sizes, since I have done the entire thing by scratch I figure on share it here.The first thing was to create a design in (which is free) and then create an Sketch. The cool thing here is we can do real measurements and export the entire sketch into a dxf format (attached as file in this step).Right click on the Sketch Save As DXFThen I opened dxf file using (which is also free) and from here I could edit last things and print it out in scale 1:1 which is awesome to do a perfect build on the acrylic and mdf (I haven't taken a photo for the print over acrylic and mdf but there is one with the prototype box).

For the box I have chosen MDF of 9 mm and I designed 2 types of 'L' to be 3D printed and assembly into any material thickness (I haven't tested them on other thickness BUT you cannot go above the 9mm since screws will overlap you should go to a thiner thickness).I'm attaching all the STL. All holes are of 5 mm diameter cause they are thought for screw (18 mm long if you use 9 mm thickness) and nuts (stamped) of 5/32 inches, the entire build is with those. Well I'm not a designer or an illustrator so I just played a little in here, I didn't want a crawled artwork and I did kinda wanted to make an original one (there are a lot to download from internet just google 'arcade artwork')The entire box was covered using an Adhesive Photo Paper of 115 gr (A4) which I sprayed with a can of Transparent Varnish (an aerosol like ) to keep the Ink in place (I've printed all of them with my inkjet printer).For the artwork of the panel I used a Photo Paper of 150 gr (tried 230 gr but my printer didn't want to eat it). Design was pretty easy since I already have the SVG on Inkscape (step 10) so it was a matter of getting some design.

Purchasing the full amount of Apples basically transforms Kirby from a game with the horrible free-to-play model into a game you can just buy for 24 quid and play how you like. How If you get a common fragment (light, water, fire) maxed out at the cap of 999, you'll receive 10 rare fragments for each type. Playing right now: Team Kirby Clash Deluxe, Kingdom Hearts 1.5 + 2.5 HD Ultimate Final Mix Ultra Deluxe+ Collector's Edition. Team Kirby Clash Deluxe is the first (and hopefully last) 'free-to-start' game in the Kirby series. The purpose of this guide is to record the various numerical data for the game, and act as a reference guide for curious players.